Showing posts with label Gucci. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gucci. Show all posts

Monday, 2 July 2018

A Word to the Wise




A Word to the Wise 

Credit Bottega Veneta 


There is a preoccupation of LVMH, Kerring and others obsessed with selling to customers they don't have yet, namely the RAM (you heard it first here! Rich Asian Millennials) they are willing to sacrifice their scapegoats like Tomas Maier. In Classical times goats were traditionally sacrificed before a tragedy.

The focus on the Gen. Y & Z not know for their 'stealth' aesthetic is being targeted not for their own good but because they have £$%E! to spend on signifiers of status and allegiance and haven't quite got the access to tons of pop-culture vintage/pre-loved that the West has mountains of that targets our own youth market.

Witness Gucci's new campaign Pre-Fall 2018 that uses the student-led riots in Paris, 1968, the golden anniversary reference of riot and mayhem against the establishment and boredom, events that look quaint and romantic in comparison and disregard of the heated, crimes of hate that have taken place in the city in more recent years where and when the story is a little more complicated and not so easy to sell.

Golden Years? 1968/2018
Credit Gucci 



That commerce needs new blood (money) and has chosen to rework and repackage some vague, nostalgic view of youthful overspill in recognisable clothes of yesteryear is not as silly and random as it may seem to people not born yesterday.

In the race to meet sales targets and move on and up all bets are off for PCness and appropriateness. The proliferation of all things FRESH, YOUTHFUL, FRESH, NEW, FRESH, CURRENT, FRESH NOW, FRESH, EDGY, FRESH, UP-AND-COMMING, FRESH and FRESH what feels dangerous (edgy and pretty) and safe (locked in the past) all at the same time? What can possibly be fresher than repackaging the West's glorious heyday of counterculture stereotyping and aiming at markets that have an even vaguer idea of it than those that can almost remember it (or are bored of tales of it)?


Sunday, 10 June 2018

Sustainability and Ethics for Beginners



The New Rules 


Tips for Sustainability and Ethics for Beginners (the Dr. NO Way) 


http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/how-sustainable-is-your-wardrobe
http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/gucci-equilibrium

So great to see Vogue discussing ethics and Gucci making sustainable decisions (see links above) but what are magazines and brands now telling us so they can now sell to us (someone's gonna steal that for a song, just remember you saw it here first)? 

What started off years ago as an honest look and review of the horrors of cheap (and not so cheap) fashion 

1.  As we all know by now new fashion looks remarkably like the old fashion. Apart from every gen. of new designers 'designing' what they liked best in their mother's wardrobe there is a tipping point from exclusive to mainstream to naff that fashion needs time to forget. 

1A. Hit 35? Steal your own mother's wardrobe from 15-20 years ago, mothers being mothers will have got rid of the tat and kept the good designer stuff that cost a packet.  Gotta be some advantages of being Gen. Y rather than Gen. Z. 

2. Gold is a sore point. Mining is never environmentally friendly (unless you panning for it in the beginnings of the Clyde, in the Southern Uplands, Scotland).  

2A Instead of scrapping all your old gold earrings (including the odd ones) and investing in Phoebe's last collection of brass bits for Celine for the same money (you may have to top-up ;-) ) and helping replenish saintly Gucci's quest for ethically sourced gold stocks. just wear the ones you have already. I know ingenious! Besides, Celine's are mostly all, all sold out and may turn your ears green.

3. Fur! OMG! Apparently mink are much more precious than cows... or python. How can I break this to people gently, that their suede, leather, nubuck and other dubious material shoes are made out of animal. What about the poor silk worms (one to ask Stella when you see her)? So those so-soft acrylics or nylon puffers, no animal suffers from the environmental 

3A. Before you beat yourself up, go to confession and rush over to PETA to off-load your sables so they can kit out the homeless of NY, how about just wearing what you got. 

4. Anybody else noticed how Indian-inspired Gucci's fine jewellery is getting? For a House famed for its Florentine workmanship it's looking decidedly non-Italian. Not sure how many air-miles  are being clocked-up in the process.

4A Buy beautiful Indian jewellery straight from the source, Jaipur is renowned for it's artistry and where it's at, and you'll help Gucci lessen it's environmental impact even more. Another option is to buy from companies that only employ local craftspeople (of course you may have to check they're not flown in to a sweat shop and had their passports locked away). 


Let's not kid ourselves. What is the promise now? If we can all wear what we like whenever and whenever the only reason to buy clothes is either to replace them from being worn-out  (yeah, right!) or make us feel so guilty about what we have already we feel embarrassed enough to chuck everything away (pretend it never happened) and start over. It's a bit like reading 'free-range milk' at your supermarket (shouldn't that be farmers' market?). Once you see it, you suddenly think every other carton without it written on must be from battery-cows (and why are you still drinking milk from animals anyway?!!! Shouldn't the country side be filled with plastic starter homes and terraced solar fuel panels? ) A label or a pledge often doesn't mean a thing.

If ethical dressing and equilibrium don't shift units and make the shareholders happy, all that is holy-Millennium talk will be trashed and discarded and sent along to the landfill sites. Don't expect the big fireworks or write-ups when Gucci ditches the nylon and polly-blends and brings back the silk-lined mink. When people start thinking why they're paying thousands for the same stuff as down the market and it doesn't matter how GUCCY is spelled, ethics will be the last of  Marco Bizzarri's problems.

Sunday, 24 May 2015

Gucci Charm Offensive

The Onward March Of the 'It' Charm





I was never a big fan of bag charms but I suddenly see the appeal. Never mind buying a new bag, just brighten up an old one with its own accessory. No doubt about it, naming the 'it' bag is over, identifying soles so passe and the trophy jacket has its day, now it's all about that little thing dangling off your oldest carry case, keys attached or not.  







After the Hermes Rodeo galloping up the resale charts and furry Fendi monsters attacking every high-street there are some new cute adult 'toys' up for grabs.

How's about a Gucci Doll Charm? 48 hours in the hand-making and each one slightly different.

My favourite, and totally worth investing for one reason alone: the lift boy was the original Gucci icon. His figure graced luggage and bags way before Guccio Gucci's son Aldo changed him into an aristocratic shopping knight.

Gucci Gucci was that lift boy who fetched and carried in the Savoy built up the Gucci business and name on the back of Florentine expertise and quality in craft and leather making. A rags to riches story any man or woman should be proud of. All that history in the Art Deco shape of one little key chain, that's what I call charm!







Wednesday, 21 January 2015

Unexpected All Change at Gucci: Men's AW 15/16

Alessandro Michele (and Team) Takes A Bow At Gucci







I've wondered why, since women have borrowed from men so often in the last century, why there seldom seemed any 'reciprocal arrangement'.  Exceptions of course, for years I've known (male) friends buy women's jeans and T shirts, occasionally and deliberately for the fit, but more for the variety, especially colour, finishes and prints. And of course everyone is screaming 1970s references at Alessandro Michele's Men's collection for Winter. Doesn't anyone remember Kurt Cobain in a dress, the androgyny of utility-wear, and unisex fragrances?  Far more grunge than glam, this show had all the hallmarks of generation X in their heyday. A few more designers now seem to be questioning the devisions between menswear and women's wear, Slimane and Prada included, and so Michele is not alone. The HUGE rise of interest and sales in men's RTW has led to more focused and experimental thinking altogether, perhaps about time, now roles in society have changed so much.  From that point of view I welcome Gucci's collection, why shouldn't a man wear a pussy bow around his neck? However there was a whole lot of unfinished business about this collection, and I'm not just talking about Giannini's early exit.  

Dare we raise the question of who will buy this collection? There are plenty of hipsters, artists and wannabe artists of all kinds who would buy pre-loved women's wear in charity shops (goodwill) but hipsters and my thrifty friends are not going to be buying Gucci, and Gucci's regular customers won't go near anything from this catwalk, so I hope Gucci will have their usual shirts 'at the back' (I'm sure they will). In a way, and maybe sadly, that will make this collection redundant.




No doubt there is also a pressure on designers to concentrate on bottom lines, and I'm not talking about trousers.  Hedi Slimane has taken Saint Laurent back to its bohemian routes in many ways, and with it we are told, huge profitability. Valentino has gone rock star crazy, and Kenzo has re-awakened to the cash tills roaring approval of everything tiger. Obviously, rock n roll, no matter how mainstream is still a money spinner now we can all be Stars for 15 seconds on YouTube. Will it work at Gucci? Only time will tell. Gucci has always been about sex and sensuality. Tom Ford or Frida Giannini, the focus has always been on confident femininity and masculinity, no matter the sexual predilection of the wearer. Butter soft leather, feathers or crisp wild silk, there was never an air of ambiguity and self doubt about the Gucci woman or man, Gucci was never street fashion but a fantasy, light years away from the mundane. The vibe for AW15/16 is entirely different. 

As for the '5 day' wonder collection.  With all the will in the world, Gucci's huge budget and their own factories those clothes were NOT designed, developed, made and styled in five days.  The women's-themed menswear was more style-ploy to join a lot of previous year samples and 'found' clothes together and present it as a show. Michele obviously went shopping from Gucci's own closet plus perhaps a hunt in Rome's own thrift shops (kidding). I can see those trousers have had the hems let down, some of the coats are women's (just look at the black Astrakhan!), the rings are cast offs . I think it was more a case of cast the model and see what we've got that fits :-D

All pictures from Gucci.com 


Saturday, 17 January 2015

Storing Silk Scarves

Storing Silk Scarves

La Femme aux Semmelles du Vent Carre* 

Scarves were obviously made to be worn, but if you, like me, have quite a few (publishing no figures here LOL) where do you put the ones you only wear in Summer/Winter/Christmas/For best until their time comes around again? Or perhaps you are a collector of fine vintage designer silks, when condition is paramount rather than access. It would be lovely to have the resources of Catherine the Great and design something purpose built in collaboration with your finest cabinet maker to be housed in a vast annex the size of an average room at the Hermitage but alas we are not, so we can't. 

I'm not talking about the cold-weather muffler types here, as they are an altogether different category, the scarves I'm talking about here are the more delicate scarves that are given as gifts and collected as prize possessions. Today's good quality silk scarves are actually hardier than one might imagine. Whilst no one in their right mind would wear one in a torrential downpour without an umbrella, wear it to pig-out with over all-you-can-eat in 30 mins 'restaurant' or teaming it with a barbed-wire necklace they won't mind a gently handwash, few spots of rain or using as an impromptu belt or strap.  There are many blogs that show you DIY storage solutions or their own fabulous walk-in wardrobes, and we are all probably aware of all the contraptions sold as scarf storage. Let's go through the challenges and solutions of storing your silky accessories:

Different needs, challenges and solutions apply to all people, so I have just tried to look at the most popular possible solutions. Obviously, the endless various shapes, materials and sizes will present different challenges. 

> Most people leave them in the boxes they were first given in. That's fine if you never wear them. Just stick a label on the outside of the outside of the box or write directly on it what's inside so that if you have a few in the same sort of boxes you'll know which one's which.

< Storing in boxes for scarves in use is not ideal but many, including myself think it's better than losing them or storing in a place where something can get at a range en masse. Crossed-wires about the suitability of packaging for storing seems to have happened because of Internet auction sites, people assuming that since collectors want original packaging all manner of things should be stored that way. That is not the case. Hermes SAs do not recommend leaving scarves (or bags) in boxes, the boxes are just sold as part of the packaging. Scarves, like their bags should be hung. 

< Once you've worn a scarf you should let it air. Hang it over the back of a chair or on a rail from the diagonal or however best to let the creases fall out. This is much better for the scarf than constantly ironing (always a clean towel between the iron and scarf) or steaming.

> Folding up in a draw, probably the way the way they were displayed in the store. Again, fine for brand new (and I don't mean new-to-you here) and absolutely newly clean scarves. Make sure the draw is lined and checked for any snags (including all edges) before storing. 

> Folded in a shelved cabinet is a good idea especially if it has a glass front. 

< Folding is also a highly contentious issue. Many collectors only accept puffy hemlines and original folds. That is a hangover from only accepting mint condition scarves that have never been worn. Actually, the silk will weaken and sometimes permanently discolour in the folds. If you have to fold, either do it loosely or take new/clean acid-free tissue paper, lay flat on top and fold the 2 sheets within the scarf. Even better roll the scarves with tissue paper in-between. 

> Poles/barres are an easy DIY solution and you will see your scarves better than in a draw but it means that your scarf will always have knot marks somewhere before you wear. Much easier for the larger or long scarf shapes as if you have to tie a knot at all it can be much looser. 

> 'Pegs' or pincer systems should be scrutinised for any rough edges and the closure mechanism should not be too strong or it will mark the scarf. Never pull the scarf from these, even in a tearing hurry (pun intended) open the peg and let the scarf fall out.

> Scarf hangers with holes are a great solution for scarves used in heavy rotation. Make sure the holes are absolutely smooth on the inside as well as the rest of the hanger, this especially applies to the wooden ones. The ones covered in velour or velvet are soft and the scarf has less chance of slipping. Again, don't tug or pull a scarf too quickly if in a hurry in cases the scarf finds a snag before you do and don't over fill these hangers or the scarves will look a mess . 

> Scarf hangers with bars are the original scarf hangers, again look for any possible rough edges and perhaps look for the ones that have thick rolls over a bar as they are easier, metal only bars will not hold your silk carres well, you will be forever picking them up off the floor. Another possible issue, is unless you only have 1 scarf per bar, you may not be able to see all the scarves.

< Any scarf hangers should have plenty of room around and not stuffed in a wardrobe, better to hang on the back of a door although some people find that too messy looking.

> Hooks and knobs will not work for silk scarves unless you hang them by the care tag and most of us would not want to do that. Even hooks with rounded or ball ends are not advised. 


Any other posh scarf storage solution/challenge please let me know 

I suppose my next post should be on how to store/what to do with a lot of empty scarf boxes :-D

*This is a picture taken by me of my scarf and bangle. If you see this picture advertising this scarf either item for sale anywhere else, with or without the watermark, it won't be me, this scarf, and most likely nothing like the scarf you will receive (KWIM?). 


Saturday, 13 December 2014

Gucci: Too Big for Their Own Boots?


Winter corner of Gucci by Accornero scarf 



All change, all change, Frida Giannini, Creative Director of Gucci will leave next February, a month after her partner, Patrizio Di Marco. The news was announced just after the Gucci pre-fall campaign and in time for Christmas. It's sad and unjust that the 8 years of Giannini's steady creative and wearable output is seen as the reason for Gucci's poor bottom line performance of late, whilst the Kering parent company ignores their own plans of world domination through over-expansion and unrealistic shareholder dreams.   


The change initiated a whole garble of identikit news comment on the supposed changing demographics of the average luxury consumer. There is an unhealthy obsession with courting the Chinese, the Arabs, the Russians, the Brazilians or wherever the next untapped average billionaire comes from in the supposed new world order.  No one likes a fawning toady. Where ever people come from they like to be treated as intelligent and sophisticated. Connoisseurs of beautiful and discernibly quality objects are not easily swayed by teen actors swinging the latest whatever gets thrown at her/him, never mind the logo.   Talking abut youth, young consumers have always chosen to shop differently than their parents, do Kering really think teenagers will part with thousands of dollars (or comparable currency) because a new creative director will put on a crazy show six times a year, maybe they will, but it seems positively adolescent to chase a mythical marketing dragon.  The bottom line, changing the creative talent at an established brand is not going improve the dividend if Gucci continue to provide seasonal discount sales and knock-em-out outlet fodder.  

Wednesday, 4 June 2014

First look: Gucci Resort / Cruise 2015


Stealth Wealth Plus Extras

Another ultra wearable collection from Frida Giannini for Gucci. Clean lines, hot colours, sunshine bleached and faded, worn with dense black, white, camel or orange, all accented with gleaming silver or the blackest navy. The well worn nautical theme came through very strongly, either in lovelorn favourite casual pieces or smart and Modern. Either way, precious embellishments or classically tailored, these are pieces that suggest you've had them for a while and promise you will be keeping forever.  





The once-staple of every woman's wardrobe the safari-style shirt-dress, gets a reworking with generous slashes to show a tanned leg, block heeled 'loafer' boots or cut in shoulders to show off beautiful toned arms (mental note to self, lots of press-ups and push-ups for a body money can't buy). Style note, shirts and shirt dresses were done up to the chin, made even higher with a silk neckerchief.




The print by Kris Knight is a modern Flora, unusual, edgy blooms that possess a beauty outside the usual pretty classic garden flowers.


As so often with Gucci, standard classics also come in leather and precious skins, the season will be no exception with sailors strides in the softest leather, touches of python in the palest shades to showcase the skin's natural markings. Similarly the ubiquitous Gucci loafer will be available bejewelled.



As so often it's the details will separate the Gucci originals from the many copies that will sure to be around, whether a leather collar or heavyweight gob-stopper buttons on a perfectly cut coat. As in previous seasons, the accessories were relatively low key for Gucci, preferring to foreground the exceptional leather and iconic features. 



The evening promises ergo-dynamic and sophisticated late-1960s sheath dresses with shimmering detail highlighting the cut-outs, and unlike for the day, shown with no extra jewellery and the hair simply worn down



Tuesday, 27 November 2012

Gucci Gold



Silver and 18K 'Gucci Firenze 2921' bangle, made to celebrate Gucci's 90 anniversary, pic from gucci.com 


There always seem to be a few 14 karat gold pieces for sale

WARNING 

Gucci have NEVER made 14 Karat pieces.

All Gucci gold is 18 Karat

Some beautiful Gucci silver pieces are described as #silver and 18 Karat gold' This means silver and 18 Karat gold plating (as in the gold parts are covered silver and not solid gold) as the one above.

Most 18 Karat gold jewellery is fairly new (post-1990)

If you are looking at gold vintage jewellery it is much rarer. There are 18K pieces throughout Gucci's history, some even adorning bags, but usually made to order or for special projects such as the range of 18K jewellery designed by Patrizia Gucci (nee Patrizia Reggiani, married to Maurizio Gucci, grandson of Guccio Gucci) and was part of a crocodile themed collection from the 1980s.

Gucci's vintage silver (many with enamel) jewellery (and belts) pieces are very collectible. There were many fakes on the market at the time too. Make sure they are silver, make sure they are Gucci or they are worth approx their weight in silver but no more


Saturday, 3 November 2012

Blast from Perfect (Gucci) Past

Once upon a time I had ambitions of combining frivolity and seriousness all one blog. Unfortunately, when life gets too serious I feel like lightening the load with escapist fantasies of a truly glamorous days gone by, when the world was free from war, poverty and natural disasters.

History will tell us that the past was punctuated by worse ills that we could ever imagine, but still my romantic notions effervesce into a perfect hideaway from an imperfect present muddle I call life.

To help you dream of a life that never happened, here are some wonderful past illusions from the house that created 'lifestyle'. Gucci


Ahhhh, the Jet Set life... 



...La Dolce Vita indeed 


When women coordinated even with each other...


...and luggage came in sets.



People bought only once so they only bought the very best...



...and leather-wear was synonymous with Italy
(France meant fashion darling)...


...and the Mombasa bag was for men who hunted in the Jungle
and belonged to Gucci and not to YSL
(sorry, Saint Laurent, got to keep up with the times) 




Wednesday, 22 February 2012

GucciAutumn/Winter 2012/2013 review





Colours of deepest Autumnal permeated, shades that Gucci is famous for, dark mustard, oil-slick green, petrol blue and bruised, regal purple and blood red garnet, sometimes blended together on iridescent feathers for full effect. Like precious gems seen in a city night-scape among the multiples of textural permutations black on black, shadow-play on black. These were no young nymphs but magnificent ancient sirens out to bewitch and seduce. I loved the show I went to see, happy I missed the one Ms Jones saw.

Dare I say, there were a few references to mid-noughties-naughtiness Tom Ford on the catwalk (Gucci and YSL) plus that certain late-1970s Gucci attitude towards recession and global crises (crisis? What crisis?) and thank goodness, nothing more horrible than a pseudo-pious mega-brand doing 'grunge' on the catwalk. Better the rich to 'fritter' their money making the world a prettier place. And for the rest of us 'investers' cash may be crashing, shares may be crumbling and bricks and mortar may make way for a super-speed railway tomorrow, put your resources on your back and wear your heart on your blouse-sleeve.

There were not quite so many notible accessories on the catwalk this time around. Dark, shiny stone jewellery, curvey, high, field and ankle boots in various textures and finishes of black including suede and patent and polished leather. Bags followed suit (ha ha) with a variation of the popular Stirrup bag of last year (A/W 2011/12) morphing from stiff to supple and a framed bag, which could be another possible re-issue from Gucci's extensive and excellent archive. Most of the bags again shown in variations of black, shiny crocodile, velvet diamond-print and shiny leather and matte nubuck. Belts were tied silk-rope with Gucci hardware, the tassel now so much apart of the Gucci vocabulary and glasses round and wiry (not my favourite shape). All in all, dark, sensual, and very, very dangerous for the wallet. For professional women only 'nymphs' and innocents' check out Ferretti and Miu Miu.

Image style.com

Wednesday, 21 December 2011

Is it a Gucci Jackie or a Bouvier?





There are actually 2 bags named after Jackie/Bouvier/Kennedy/Onassis. At first glance they look similar but they are actually 2 different bag models.

1. The Bouvier, or G1097 was created in 1958 and is a flattish shoulder bag with a snap-hook lock closure

and

2. The Jackie, or G1244 created in 1961 with a wider leather base and a piston lock

There were other modifications to these basic models above featuring slightly different locks etc over the years.

Jackie Bouvier/Kennedy/Onassis carried both models of the bag in many variations

Many Hermes lovers confuse Jackie O's bags with the Hermes Trim (just discontinued). She may have owned Trims which look similar to the Jackie but she certainly carried her namesake bags that became part of her everyday chic style.



Tom Ford re-launched the Jackie in 1999 but there have also been Bouviers during mid-2000s.

Frida Giannini brought out the softer New Jackie with a detachable longer shoulder strap and tassels in 2009 in 2 sizes, the Large version is now a little smaller than the massive Large version of '09

The original version of the Jackie was launched again AW '11 with a single adjustable strap but only Med size

Tuesday, 3 May 2011

Best bag in the World

Gucci Bamboo Top Handle 1947-20011

Designed in 1947 in a roundish shape to emulate a horse's saddle and given a bamboo top-handle because of leather shortages after WWII,  this bag is an enduring beauty, like its many owners ;-)




Ingrid Bergman, Naples 1953



Vanessa Redgrave, 1966 



Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, Doha 2009 
(a year before the current re-launch in S/S'10)


2011

Pictures from Gucci on face book http://www.facebook.com/notes/gucci/from-the-archives-the-bamboo-bag/10150110997913300 and Gucci.com (the medium corral leather bag is available now)



Monday, 4 April 2011

Liz Taylor, Paul Newman and a Gucci Flora Bamboo Top-handle, 1958

The most beautiful woman and man in the film-world 
with the world's most iconic handbag 


From the film set of the Cat on the Hot Tin Roof * (credit Rue Des Archives) 
*Taylor's husband Michael Tod died in a aeroplane crash during the making of the film, the studio gave her a couple of weeks off to mourn and then forced her back to work.


Monday, 21 March 2011

Monthly Vintage Advice Slot - Part 1

 Monogram Vs Stealth
More GG and LV per $£E







I know there are all sorts of classy stealth-wealth vintage fans reading, who probably already know the beauty of a bag is in the finest materials and the best Florentine/Parisienne craftsmanship money can buy but a lot of people of both genders love their GGs or LVs covering their bags.

For Gucci 
This means that original GG fabric, GG Plus (coated-canvas) Guccisima leather (GG stamped leather) and large GG hardware logos command more money at on-line auctions even though the popular canvas models usually costed less on average than their plain leather counterparts new . So, if you want a fabulous bargain look out for a all-leather bag with less Gs on the outside.  Likewise, if you are a would-be seller of a beautiful vintage leather Gucci bag, perhaps you would do better at a high-ranking auction house like Christies (owned by Gucci group) rather than auctions aimed at the mass-market.

For Louis Vuittons
The same holds true if you want a quality Louis Vuitton. A beautiful Epi leather bag is often overlooked in favour of the original monogram canvas/vachetta  leather-trim version of the same model. So quality lovers, look for that rare and colourful Epi or classic Nomade leather item, much more £ for £ or $ for $, your cash, card  or paypal will go further in proportion to the original price paid and leave the monograms to those that cannot do without their fix of their mono-drug. Bare in mind that the reverse is true if you decide to re-sell your LV at a future date.