Wednesday 22 February 2012

GucciAutumn/Winter 2012/2013 review





Colours of deepest Autumnal permeated, shades that Gucci is famous for, dark mustard, oil-slick green, petrol blue and bruised, regal purple and blood red garnet, sometimes blended together on iridescent feathers for full effect. Like precious gems seen in a city night-scape among the multiples of textural permutations black on black, shadow-play on black. These were no young nymphs but magnificent ancient sirens out to bewitch and seduce. I loved the show I went to see, happy I missed the one Ms Jones saw.

Dare I say, there were a few references to mid-noughties-naughtiness Tom Ford on the catwalk (Gucci and YSL) plus that certain late-1970s Gucci attitude towards recession and global crises (crisis? What crisis?) and thank goodness, nothing more horrible than a pseudo-pious mega-brand doing 'grunge' on the catwalk. Better the rich to 'fritter' their money making the world a prettier place. And for the rest of us 'investers' cash may be crashing, shares may be crumbling and bricks and mortar may make way for a super-speed railway tomorrow, put your resources on your back and wear your heart on your blouse-sleeve.

There were not quite so many notible accessories on the catwalk this time around. Dark, shiny stone jewellery, curvey, high, field and ankle boots in various textures and finishes of black including suede and patent and polished leather. Bags followed suit (ha ha) with a variation of the popular Stirrup bag of last year (A/W 2011/12) morphing from stiff to supple and a framed bag, which could be another possible re-issue from Gucci's extensive and excellent archive. Most of the bags again shown in variations of black, shiny crocodile, velvet diamond-print and shiny leather and matte nubuck. Belts were tied silk-rope with Gucci hardware, the tassel now so much apart of the Gucci vocabulary and glasses round and wiry (not my favourite shape). All in all, dark, sensual, and very, very dangerous for the wallet. For professional women only 'nymphs' and innocents' check out Ferretti and Miu Miu.

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