Monday, 18 February 2013

Kane and Very Able

Christopher Kane Autumn Winter '13


Kane's show consisted of mostly (and most strongly) of dresses but otherwise a collection of diverse ideas. Fragmentation is usually a disaster at fashion shows (they're called collection you know ;-)) but not today. I don't always want to know the a designers starting point for his/her collection but rather let the finished pieces 'speak' to me personally. Kane nearly always manages to make 'ugly' work, sometimes ugly is so refreshing in a world of the beautiful ones. Some of the most 'ugly' pieces sang to me whilst the mildly-interesting just muttered. Like Maya, the shapeshifter (from '70s sci fi TV series, Moonbase Alpha) semi-transparent beauty one minute, and semi-alien, warrior-queen the next, Kane (once again) pulled it off. Silhouettes were altered by extreme texture or imposing shape and, then there were dissected bodies, showing the beauty of human nature. Camouflage prints abounded, working best when not adorned by needless 'road-kill' (and I'm not strictly anti-anything except perhaps eating a cow that neighs). Ready for action, these beauties would have blended into the shadows of a dark city-scape, night or cloudy day, not attention grabbing, but passing many fleeting admiring glances as they appeared and disappeared into their surroundings and only occasionally frightening the horses and those of a more conservative, sensitive disposition.

Sunday, 17 February 2013

Mulberry Return to Designing for Grown-ups

Mulberry Autumn Winter '13

Mulberry's designer Emma Hill has created a collection for grown-ups at last. A more authentic take on British eccentricity rather than the die-trying-to-be-different efforts that marked past seasons. Tweeds and plaids were quirk -happy together as were the swishy skirts over cropped trousers for that didn't seem the victim of a stylist forcing the issue (well it's cold in the castles we all live in da Kingdom). Colours that recall British racing green to match the Bentley, chestnut-brown to blend into the estate come conker-comp time on a bed of black, birthday-suit pink and off-white with the rare sparks of winter-sunshine yellow. Skirts as outerwear and leather capes looked modern and practical, fur collars and gorgeous gloves entirely essential. For once, luxury prices reflected desirabliity and wearability of Mulberry's accessories too.   No neon tiger-prints or stars on metallic leather but eye-catching nevertheless, the hand-held bags accompanied every outfit sent everyone running to check which model was which for pre-orders. Well done chaps, jolly good show!