Before Hitting the Shoe Sales

The other day someone asked me what kinds of shoes I liked. For someone who is not particularly a 'shoe-person' I seem to have acquired quite a collection but then don't we all? Plenty of fabulous heels (I can hear the applause - and yes some are clearly for photo-ops only) a few shoes and boots to actually walk in and a couple of pair able to run for a bus should the rare impulse propel me (a bus is a form of public transport for those of you who only do limousines to theatre and shoes to match).

 So, what shoes do I like? I like them all my dears, happily usually more on other people than myself. I had a quiet word with myself a while ago and kept just a few exquisite possible museum pieces more suited to adorn coffee tables than feet and rid myself of many examples of the many pairs of almost fabulous, almost fits, almost the right colour, almost high/low enough. I also let go of the the footwear that have served me well but had had their heyday, been re-heeled, re-soled and patched up until they were no longer the same shoe (tear in eye as a I write).

Never mind the clothes issue it's the wall of shoes that give us guilt (and space) problems. We are now in sale season and nothing tempts more than a shoe sale. With a little preliminary footwear editing and psychological preparation you and I CAN buy shoes we will actually wear. Never mind your feet, shop with your head. These are my rules but they have been fashioned out of years of (bad) practice. Enjoy, but don't forget if a pair of shoes is now half price is does not mean you should buy 2 pairs unless of couse you are a four legged animal. Before buying:

 1. Never buy shoes in the sales that you wouldn't consider normally. They are not a bargain sitting in your wardrobe.

 2. Make sure they fit. Never buy shoes that are even half a size too big or small (or narrow) no matter how much you love them. Your feet won't shrink or (since you are not a child) grow.

 3. Don't buy boots or shoes you can't put on or pull off by yourself or take longer than 5 mins. There is a reason why button-up boots went out of fashion when lady's-maids did.

 4. Don't make do with a colour that you only quite like, brown isn't black no matter how dim the light.

 5. Don't keep choosing styles that don't suit you. Doesn't matter how good your best friend or fave celeb looks in them

 6. Fashion is flippant, if what suits you is 'in' buy, if nothing is out there that makes your heart beat faster or you can walk in don't buy until the fashion changes again.

 7. Don't buy the cheapest designer option just because it's the only pair you can afford from that brand. Don't buy the 'inspired' or diffusion copies either. Wait for the sale, stalk *bay or save up for the pair you really want.

 8. Know your heel limits, even if it breaks your heart it's better than breaking your ankle.

 9. Don't buy shoes you can't wear in the rain, sun, snow, on carpet and on pavements, shoes that precious should beni a museum not in a normal women's closet.

 10. Know your feet, know your next pair of shoes. Write down all the things you need in a shoe and the occasion you need it for - then go shopping.

 Editing your existing shoe wardrobe: Observe the 'rules' 1-10 above and go 'shopping' in your own wardrobe, just change the word 'buy' to 'keep'. Don't worry so much about having lots of similar styles or colours, what will suit you will suit you. Plus, keeping a couple pairs of fantasy shoes just for 'looking at' is OK

GucciAutumn/Winter 2012/2013 review

Colours of deepest Autumnal permeated, shades that Gucci is famous for, dark mustard, oil-slick green, petrol blue and bruised, regal purple and blood red garnet, sometimes blended together on iridescent feathers for full effect. Like precious gems seen in a city night-scape among the multiples of textural permutations black on black, shadow-play on black. These were no young nymphs but magnificent ancient sirens out to bewitch and seduce. I loved the show I went to see, happy I missed the one Ms Jones saw.

Dare I say, there were a few references to mid-noughties-naughtiness Tom Ford on the catwalk (Gucci and YSL) plus that certain late-1970s Gucci attitude towards recession and global crises (crisis? What crisis?) and thank goodness, nothing more horrible than a pseudo-pious mega-brand doing 'grunge' on the catwalk. Better the rich to 'fritter' their money making the world a prettier place. And for the rest of us 'investers' cash may be crashing, shares may be crumbling and bricks and mortar may make way for a super-speed railway tomorrow, put your resources on your back and wear your heart on your blouse-sleeve.

There were not quite so many notible accessories on the catwalk this time around. Dark, shiny stone jewellery, curvey, high, field and ankle boots in various textures and finishes of black including suede and patent and polished leather. Bags followed suit (ha ha) with a variation of the popular Stirrup bag of last year (A/W 2011/12) morphing from stiff to supple and a framed bag, which could be another possible re-issue from Gucci's extensive and excellent archive. Most of the bags again shown in variations of black, shiny crocodile, velvet diamond-print and shiny leather and matte nubuck. Belts were tied silk-rope with Gucci hardware, the tassel now so much apart of the Gucci vocabulary and glasses round and wiry (not my favourite shape). All in all, dark, sensual, and very, very dangerous for the wallet. For professional women only 'nymphs' and innocents' check out Ferretti and Miu Miu.

Image style.com

Is it a Gucci Jackie or a Bouvier?

There are actually 2 bags named after Jackie/Bouvier/Kennedy/Onassis. At first glance they look similar but they are actually 2 different bag models.

1. The Bouvier, or G1097 was created in 1958 and is a flattish shoulder bag with a snap-hook lock closure

and

2. The Jackie, or G1244 created in 1961 with a wider leather base and a piston lock

There were other modifications to these basic models above featuring slightly different locks etc over the years.

Jackie Bouvier/Kennedy/Onassis carried both models of the bag in many variations

Many Hermes lovers confuse Jackie O's bags with the Hermes Trim (just discontinued). She may have owned Trims which look similar to the Jackie but she certainly carried her namesake bags that became part of her everyday chic style.



Tom Ford re-launched the Jackie in 1999 but there have also been Bouviers during mid-2000s.

Frida Giannini brought out the softer New Jackie with a detachable longer shoulder strap and tassels in 2009 in 2 sizes, the Large version is now a little smaller than the massive Large version of '09

The original version of the Jackie was launched again AW '11 with a single adjustable strap but only Med size

Christmas gifts for the those that make a difference to my mundane existence

It seems everyday I am disappointed by poor standards of work or general grumpiness of people (often me included). It's just so nice to find good service, workmanship and friendliness just when I least expect it.

I can't do anything about those who hate the world on a day to day basis but this is the season I like to go round like the goody-2-shoes I make out I am and deliver chocs and cards to all those that have gone out of their way to make my life easier and brighter

If you've been conscientious and/or good for no apparent reason all year its goody pay-back time, expect something delicious your way soon X

LuXe-factor: choosing new, vintage or antique jewellery

Gone are the rule books about dressing and all the namby-pamby 'blue and green should not be seen' and matching one's blusher and lipstick and so on, and thank goodness for that. Self-expression reigns and we are all own our stylists, and our only consideration is for personal preference, fashion and our mood. There comes a time though, usually when spending a wheelbarrow load of money on one thing, when we want more than to reflect a micro-trend, fleeting mood or daily statement of personal expression. A time perhaps when we want to buy for investment, for the longterm or even for life. Contemplating buying an expensive piece of jewellery is just such a moment. Many people know exactly what they like and what suits them, great, good for them but for the others the choosing is a mine field. Knowing what suits you can be a great place to start.

The colour of the metal and/or stone is the most important consideration when choosing jewelly. Jewellery is supposed to adorn and enhance, make the wearer feel more attractive and powerful. Knowing eye and hair colour as though written on a passport description is not enough. Eyes - green and hair - brown is not enough. What sort of green? With amber flecks or blue flecks, grey-green or emerald green? What sort of brown, mouse-brown, with red or golden undertones, cocoa brown or darkest brown? That's the key, colours are like perfumes, there is a general colour but there are also undertones and overtones.

So here are some rules to follow, completely disregard or consider.

Time to talk METAL

Conventional wisdom 

The palest pink-undertone skin tone (that look best in  ice cream colours) look best in platinum jewellery whilst dramatic pink-undertone colouring, that looks best with jewel tone or monotone colours (sapphire, emerald, black and white) should choose white-gold or silver. Yellow based skin that looks good in autumnal muted colours are the most natural match for high carat yellow gold and those who look good in bright fresh in-between colours like bright clear turquoise look good with paler yellow tones (I wont say lower carat) or rose gold.

There is even a more general rule: silver and and rose-gold look good on everyone, platinum looks best on pink or blue - undertone skin and yellow gold on 'golden' people. I think this rule goes along the lines of what ever colour someone literally glows should be the colour that compliments their skin.

Try on the same ring or bangle that comes in a choice of different gold and see which one (or two) suits you more - usually people are drawn to the one that makes them look more healthy (enhances their natural colour).

High-street Jewellers rules:

a) fashion - don't buy into the latest trend unless you know you really love it, dated resale jewellery loses monetary value no matter how much it cost at first and fashion jewellery revivals usually take at least 20 years.

b) popular - like fashion, what is popular changes, same pitfalls as above plus if and when you get tired of yours, that's everyone will be wanting to get rid of theirs so not great at resale.

c) what is classic usually follows convention and what is accepted to be 'good taste'. White diamonds don't have to be set in white gold or platinum, pink stones don't have to be surrounded with rose gold but classic doesn't usually go out of fashion and if it does it's soon back in. On the other hand, unusual designs or combinations of colours are scarcer and therefore harder to find which could push up re-sale value in the long run.

Premium Brand Jewellery 

a) look for styles that are iconic to the brand, you will be paying for the name and these will usually hold more of their value if you ever need or want to re-sell (just saying)

b) 'entry level' pieces are usually pretty reasonable (relatively of course). If you are looking for a gift for someone else these are a good option as sometimes it is just as much about the wrapping (just saying)

c) If it's for you ,consider carefully and visit the store often, the theatre of shopping at this level is half the fun and lots of the price and at  these prices mistakes are catastrophic. If  it's for someone else and doesn't have to be a surprise, share the experience, as the memory of choosing and purchasing is often as important as the piece itself. 

d) personalise with engraving or initialized the box, the service usually costs less at the time of purchase. 

e) once bought take it back to the same store/brand to have it sized, repaired or engraved not trust any-ol'   person who gives you the best quote for many obvious reasons but also because the original jeweller will not touch the item once someone else has worked on it. 

f) if you can wait (and it could be a l-o-n-g wait) for the perfect piece at a better price, don't mind losing the luxe-factor surrounding or crave a little excitement, auctions are a great place to 'shop'. Word of warning prices are not guaranteed to devalue from full retail, plus, you will pay an extra 15-30% buyer's premium and may not get the usual accompanying box/pouch/authenticity guarantee of a certificate and I doubt you will get the original receipt.  Final warning, you better know your stuff as you can't change your mind or back out of a deal. Auction houses will use terms like 'yellow metal' meaning they can't be held to account if it doesn't turn out to be gold etc so read carefully, ask for a condition report and be careful not to assume. Some auction houses also charge for the use of credit cards in payment.

Remodel or Bespoke

a) if you already have the raw materials and the imagination you can remodel or design your perfect piece. No  guarantees how perfect the jewellery will be to your 'vision' but it will probably be closer to anything anyone else could design if it's not already out there.  Ask to see work they have done already, agree on a  time-frame, the quality of the materials or extra materials to be used and be very firm about your final budget. Write everything agreed down and make a copy for the jeweller . The downside is you can't return the item for exchange or refund. Usually you will have to pay up-front for something you can only hope will turn out as expected.. 

Right then everybody, let's head off for research ;)

Next time stones, design and size

Hunting for vintage bargains is not what it used to be

When I was a teen, so called thrifting is what my friends and I did every time we met, like a 'place' to hang out. Endless days were spent at markets and charity shops in the same way other girls marched up and down Oxford Street in London. Things have changed and not all for the good. Vintage or pre-loved may be the new posh names for second-hand goods but developments in the practice of hunting out the odd fabulous find at a bargain price are lees than classy, especially when it comes to being charitable. .

First we have the bargain hunters whose sole aim seems to be to buy at a penny and sell for pound on an on-line auction. Triumphant stories abound, celebrating a win over some unfortunate volunteer by buying a possible 'Picasso' for 50 pence. Extra squeals of delight as the hunter recounts extra percentage off for lying to the octogenarian help that it came out of the bargain basket. It's good to know that these precious things have a second life and continue to be enjoyed after their original owner no longer can or wants to, but not just to make a quick buck on-line.

The other development in charity shops is the so called designer, vintage or boutique rail. Where once there was a mutual gratification of both the charity and often poor people doing well out of the trade of decent clobber, one has to be fairly rich or have a degree in fashion history to an find overlooked sartorial gem. Over priced and usually the worst examples of any era, the shop treats their precious stock as though it was Dame Shirley's own wardrobe when in reality their rail usually comprises of 90% of yesterday's high street designer rip-offs. Who needs a Karen Millen Dress from 1999 at double what it cost in the sale? Not everyone values a multiple-coloured maxi dress over last year's Gap effort, why should the vintage maxi cost so much more just because some idiot pop star is wearing her stylist's-own version?

And where have the desirable labels and kooky precious things gone that should be on the bloody boutique rail? They are lifted out by keen fashion student and car booter volunteers, who devote an hour a week of their expertise in the back room during the process of supposedly sorting the 'wheat from the chaff' as a 'reward' wardrobe or new stock for next Sunday morning's cash-in-hand 'hobby'.

The problem is balance and fair play seem to have lost their way. While charities become 'smart' businesses trying to maximise their profits with their boutique rail so only affluent trendies can buy something that looks like it comes from a charity shop or grandma's closet the seasoned hunter will of course fell gleefully victorious if they find an item that 'got away' from the self-proclaimed expert.

Why do women wear make-up to do sport?

I have just returned from my weekly fairly strenuous jujistsu class. After a warm-up that that includes the odd bit off speedy running, star jumps, sit-ups, press-ups and strange slapping of the floor things we call 'break falls' I am sweating. Not glowing or perspiring like ladies in the past but sweating real beads of sweat from the roots of my hair to the tippy-tips of my toes. Looking round the room I see my classmates of both sexes are in a similar state.

After our warm-up (more accurately heat-up) we move on to graded exercises throwing and flooring our opponents in friendly combat. My grade partner just happens to be twice the size and weight of me so by the end of the syllabus work I am leaving puddles of sweat on the floor, my face is red and I have to use my jacket sleeve to wipe my eyes to stop them stinging.

For a year I was a lone women among a class full of men until happily a year ago another feisty female joined in the fun. Recently I have the pleasure to report more women joining the class. The only fly in the beauty ointment is that the new ladies can not bare to be bare faced and turn up caked in make-up. We are not talking waterproof mascara or a hint of eyeliner, I am talking full-on party make-up. Every week I come home home with a newly stained suit from ground fighting, but never mind me and the new expense of buying bottles of Vanish whitener, what about them?

What can someone be thinking when faced with a steaming dojo that they present themselves in full warpaint only to have it trickling down their necks after 5 minutes and stinging their eyes after 10. Surely, there can be fewer more bitter tastes than make-up seeping into one's mouth or no feeling less desirable than looking like a bad drag act facing a handsome gladiator as one is about to wipe what is left of one's face on his gleaming White suit during a bout of ground fighting.

What can be so montrous, so unbecoming, so scary underneath the mask that a woman would rather risk looking like a melted oil portrait and ingest grams of chemicals?