It's Not All Growth but it's All Good

Photo of MJ tee from what's he wearing Matches Fashion

Marc Jacobs is closing his Mount Street, London store after having been there since 2007. A so-called pioneer of the many global brands that have since newly arrived to the street. The designer's brand was still riding high on the popularity of the 'it' bag styles of '00s, his Blakes and Venetias selling out in most department stores worldwide within weeks. MJ (along with Chloe's Paddington) brought the status bag to a whole new crowd, forgoing their mothers' more matronly Birkins, Speedys and Chanel Classic Flaps that had been so popular in the late-1980s and would return with a vengeance. These softer bags with MAJOR hardware referenced growing up in the 1970s, and a whole generation of young women who'd ever seen the like bought every colour and variation of these beautifully made but heavy bags. Somewhere along the timeline, Marc Jacobs and his diffusion line Marc for Marc Jacobs aimed at a even younger crown began to merge in people's heads to a vanishing point.

Mount street, although promoted to the hilt in every commercial and residential estate agent's portfolio is still off the tourist beaten track and the boutiques can often be deathly quiet. Weekday visits can see sales teams staring out at the street in hopeful anticipation of more than footfall or chat among themselves. In the last five years growth of online sales have more than doubled in terms of proportion of the market* and even five-figure sums are regularly spent on the new season fashion's trophy pieces before they sell out in a digital flash.

But this is much more than the ol' bricks and mortar store against digital mail order as global brands are queueing to get a foothold in prime locations in London as well as other capital cities, whatever the cost. These shops represent the pinnacle of a creative vision, a branding opportunity, a showroom dedicated to the senses of seeing and feeling (not to mention smelling whilst greeted by a whiff in the air of designer's scent). Where loyal and hoped-to-be-soon customers are treated to special, by invite only events and previews, the whole pleasurable, theatrical experience of shopping is at it's height in-store.  That's all true and as maybe but many of these flagship stores are also loss leaders.  In many ways it's the same as having a posh address to live in no matter how 'bijou', location, location, location. Nobody need ever really visit, it's about keeping up appearances on headed notepaper. Even if provincial fans of MJ's Daisy scent can't ever visit these stores in far flung cities at all, they can sniff their inside arm and be taken there.

Fashion Houses are now like football teams, there are still die-hard loyalists to each designer's aesthetic but most fans just float around from one brand to another  to another, wanting to wear uniforms of this season's winning team and proudly announcing the(ir) score writ large on their bag, shoes ad belt buckle, perhaps it was ever thus. Maybe the financial papers have Marc Jacobs slipping down to the relegation zone, but with his RTW collections as strong as ever in recent seasons the creative juices are obviously still flowing ad with no Louis Vuitton to distract him perhaps get back to the wearable, quirky, quality items of MJ glory days. Even as part of the LVMH, Jacobs is one of the few global names that heads his own fashion brand and continues to have a strongly recognisable style.

Fashion has always been created with smoke and mirrors, but when one's tied to businesses as big as LVMH the ink on the bottom of the page is indelible and clear.  Since eleven years ago the World is quite a different place and many businesses are having to cut their coat according to their cloth. Fashion would do better to invest in cloth than appearances for appearance sake, at least they stand more chance of retaining the loyal followers they have already and stop all chasing the same markets which don't know what they want so long as it's wanted by millions of others.

*Figures https://www.ft.com/content/a8f5c780-f46d-11e7-a4c9-bbdefa4f210b
Photo credit http://www.whats-he-wearing.com/2009/05/april-recap.html

Gucci Charm Offensive

The Onward March Of the 'It' Charm

I was never a big fan of bag charms but I suddenly see the appeal. Never mind buying a new bag, just brighten up an old one with its own accessory. No doubt about it, naming the 'it' bag is over, identifying soles so passe and the trophy jacket has its day, now it's all about that little thing dangling off your oldest carry case, keys attached or not.  

After the Hermes Rodeo galloping up the resale charts and furry Fendi monsters attacking every high-street there are some new cute adult 'toys' up for grabs.

How's about a Gucci Doll Charm? 48 hours in the hand-making and each one slightly different.

My favourite, and totally worth investing for one reason alone: the lift boy was the original Gucci icon. His figure graced luggage and bags way before Guccio Gucci's son Aldo changed him into an aristocratic shopping knight.

Gucci Gucci was that lift boy who fetched and carried in the Savoy built up the Gucci business and name on the back of Florentine expertise and quality in craft and leather making. A rags to riches story any man or woman should be proud of. All that history in the Art Deco shape of one little key chain, that's what I call charm!

Storing Silk Scarves

Storing Silk Scarves

La Femme aux Semmelles du Vent Carre* 

Scarves were obviously made to be worn, but if you, like me, have quite a few (publishing no figures here LOL) where do you put the ones you only wear in Summer/Winter/Christmas/For best until their time comes around again? Or perhaps you are a collector of fine vintage designer silks, when condition is paramount rather than access. It would be lovely to have the resources of Catherine the Great and design something purpose built in collaboration with your finest cabinet maker to be housed in a vast annex the size of an average room at the Hermitage but alas we are not, so we can't. 

I'm not talking about the cold-weather muffler types here, as they are an altogether different category, the scarves I'm talking about here are the more delicate scarves that are given as gifts and collected as prize possessions. Today's good quality silk scarves are actually hardier than one might imagine. Whilst no one in their right mind would wear one in a torrential downpour without an umbrella, wear it to pig-out with over all-you-can-eat in 30 mins 'restaurant' or teaming it with a barbed-wire necklace they won't mind a gently handwash, few spots of rain or using as an impromptu belt or strap.  There are many blogs that show you DIY storage solutions or their own fabulous walk-in wardrobes, and we are all probably aware of all the contraptions sold as scarf storage. Let's go through the challenges and solutions of storing your silky accessories:

Different needs, challenges and solutions apply to all people, so I have just tried to look at the most popular possible solutions. Obviously, the endless various shapes, materials and sizes will present different challenges. 

> Most people leave them in the boxes they were first given in. That's fine if you never wear them. Just stick a label on the outside of the outside of the box or write directly on it what's inside so that if you have a few in the same sort of boxes you'll know which one's which.

< Storing in boxes for scarves in use is not ideal but many, including myself think it's better than losing them or storing in a place where something can get at a range en masse. Crossed-wires about the suitability of packaging for storing seems to have happened because of Internet auction sites, people assuming that since collectors want original packaging all manner of things should be stored that way. That is not the case. Hermes SAs do not recommend leaving scarves (or bags) in boxes, the boxes are just sold as part of the packaging. Scarves, like their bags should be hung. 

< Once you've worn a scarf you should let it air. Hang it over the back of a chair or on a rail from the diagonal or however best to let the creases fall out. This is much better for the scarf than constantly ironing (always a clean towel between the iron and scarf) or steaming.

> Folding up in a draw, probably the way the way they were displayed in the store. Again, fine for brand new (and I don't mean new-to-you here) and absolutely newly clean scarves. Make sure the draw is lined and checked for any snags (including all edges) before storing. 

> Folded in a shelved cabinet is a good idea especially if it has a glass front. 

< Folding is also a highly contentious issue. Many collectors only accept puffy hemlines and original folds. That is a hangover from only accepting mint condition scarves that have never been worn. Actually, the silk will weaken and sometimes permanently discolour in the folds. If you have to fold, either do it loosely or take new/clean acid-free tissue paper, lay flat on top and fold the 2 sheets within the scarf. Even better roll the scarves with tissue paper in-between. 

> Poles/barres are an easy DIY solution and you will see your scarves better than in a draw but it means that your scarf will always have knot marks somewhere before you wear. Much easier for the larger or long scarf shapes as if you have to tie a knot at all it can be much looser. 

> 'Pegs' or pincer systems should be scrutinised for any rough edges and the closure mechanism should not be too strong or it will mark the scarf. Never pull the scarf from these, even in a tearing hurry (pun intended) open the peg and let the scarf fall out.

> Scarf hangers with holes are a great solution for scarves used in heavy rotation. Make sure the holes are absolutely smooth on the inside as well as the rest of the hanger, this especially applies to the wooden ones. The ones covered in velour or velvet are soft and the scarf has less chance of slipping. Again, don't tug or pull a scarf too quickly if in a hurry in cases the scarf finds a snag before you do and don't over fill these hangers or the scarves will look a mess . 

> Scarf hangers with bars are the original scarf hangers, again look for any possible rough edges and perhaps look for the ones that have thick rolls over a bar as they are easier, metal only bars will not hold your silk carres well, you will be forever picking them up off the floor. Another possible issue, is unless you only have 1 scarf per bar, you may not be able to see all the scarves.

< Any scarf hangers should have plenty of room around and not stuffed in a wardrobe, better to hang on the back of a door although some people find that too messy looking.

> Hooks and knobs will not work for silk scarves unless you hang them by the care tag and most of us would not want to do that. Even hooks with rounded or ball ends are not advised. 

Any other posh scarf storage solution/challenge please let me know 

I suppose my next post should be on how to store/what to do with a lot of empty scarf boxes :-D

*This is a picture taken by me of my scarf and bangle. If you see this picture advertising this scarf either item for sale anywhere else, with or without the watermark, it won't be me, this scarf, and most likely nothing like the scarf you will receive (KWIM?). 

The Power of Charm(s)

Cara Delevingne and a Fendi Karl Bug 

The picture above is not of a child's soft toy but of an uber expensive fox and mink handbag charm. Big enough to cover model Delevingne's face (should that be her fancy) it would dwarf nearly any bag you would care to place it on. That was last year's prize. This year it's all about the Hermes Rodeo horse charm, the GM would be bigger than most children's first teddy bears.

Charms are going through a revival at the moment, maybe it's a backlash against all the handbag minimalism. Ten years ago, in the thrall of fashion's maximalism, bags were multicoloured, had bits all over them along with their logos and were undressed without a scarf and tinkerly doo-dah hanging from its handle. For a few years major fashion and leather goods houses have removed all but their name from their 'stealth chic' bags on pain of fashion death. So forgive me for thinking it is strange to have most companies remove all defining features and hardware from their bags for reasons of (commercial) aesthetics and simplicity only to have their customers hang 1, 2, 3 or more huge bright fluffy objects on their bags.

The Fendi Bug up-close, was a beautifully made little creature, comprised of little bits of otherwise useless very expensive fur that probably graced the cutting room floor of Fendi furrier. On the positive side, it was nice to see Fendi recycling and the limited numbers available, and on the negative, the millions of cheaper copies, there is a part of me that has found the craze for pretend animals made from real animal's fur disturbing, even though the originals were made of leftovers. That was last year's craze, this year we have the multicoloured Hermes Rodeo, a similar shape as their baby toy Herpluch (no eyes for baby's mouth to munch on) but for adults. The Grand Model will blot out most of your 35cm bag, of course, handy for hiding those stubborn stains or scratches. These have taken over as the new VVVIP contraband in stores, and people are exchanging large (over retail) amounts of cash for these bright leather horses (or should that be ponies) on the re-sale market.

What do I think? I think there is a time and place for everything.  Some of the most celebrated handbags came with their own intrinsic charm. The Hermes Kelly and Birkin with their cloche and padlock, the Gucci New bamboo Top-handle with it's removable tassel, both good examples of matching or coordinating danglies that dress the bag to make it look more chic. Nothing wrong with a Fendi Bug, a H Rodeo or whatever will be the next 'it' charm either, on the right LARGE bag. Notice I wrote 'a' denotin singular,  a whole herd of Rodeos or whatever the collective name for monster bugs on a bag and the funny farm can only be one step away.

Choosing for your charm offensive:

1. Charms shouldn't scratch your bags or make 'smiles' as they swing
2. A charm should echo the 'personality' of you bag not clash.
3. The plainer the bag the more eye-catching the charm will be.
4. Scarf OR charm. If you need twillys/ribbons to protect costly/vintage/light coloured handles perhaps wrap in the same colour as the bag or wear gloves instead.
5. For expensive charms think about whether you will still use it if it goes out of fashion and whether you could add it to a number of bags.
6. Like everything, don't get 'carried away' (no pun intended) only buy what chimes with your own character, fashion should never dictate.
7. Be careful around children and pets, they will love to play with your costly/beloved charm.
8. Think about the shape and proportions of the bag and buy a charm accordingly. Getting the shape right is just as important as the colour
9. Allow the charm/s to make your bag more versatile, even the same charm in a different colour will change your look.
10. Don't 'borrow' a child's toy as tempting as it maybe. You may have bought it but it's not actually yours ;-).

The Return of the Poncho

       Newman and Redford in Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid 1969

Having been wearing capes, thick shawls (my favourite is one made out of Tibetan yak's hair) and ponchos for a while to cries of "where did you park your horse?" I was slightly amazed by this year's crop of non-stop complements and enquiries of "OMG, that's fabulous" and "Where did you get it"?

Sometimes a trend seems to come out of nowhere. Several designers, in that supposed fashion synchronicity, march it along their respective catwalks et voila! An unmistakable fashion directional piece. Well actually, the truth is much closer to using fashion forecasters who patrol the major cities and advise design teams what's going on, on the street but let us gloss-over the intimate mechanical workings of the fashion industry and believe in the miracle of Zeitgeist.  

One thing is for sure we are not calling the new happening poncho a 'poncho' this time around. In this incarnation it's a blanket, blanket-wrap, a shawl, a cape. Although they've been bubbling up for a while and been on catwalks for a few years, this AW14 Burberry sent a 'blanket-wrap' down the runway on every model (that's what one calls a statement) and no celebrity's outfit seems complete without a blanket (over the head handy for those bad-hair/face days).  

Whether you want to splash out on a Burberry's blanket-wrap or Hermes' fabulous 'riding' poncho, get the real thing in a cosmopolitain market or charity shop, play safe with a Marks and Spencer's Per Una striped blanket-coat or follow the trend with a Top Shop seasonal special, the choice is amazing and at any price point. 

These 'blankets' do need to be thought about before wearing, because unlike a scarf or thin shawl, one can't just stash it away in a bag when the piped heating takes hold, and unlike a coat it doesn't always just stay put. They are excellent for travelling with (extra blanket or head rest no problem) but when wearing they often need an extra hand, so if you can get one with ties or a fastening so much the better. On the positive side they will fit over whatever you're wearing (so think about a universal colour for your own wardrobe) even over a jacket or coat and they one size literally firs all (but check on the length. Attention to footwear though, the silhouette with stillies/courts/mid-heels will look top heavy and flatforms/trainers maybe look clumpy. I will leave clogs and Uggs to your conscience. Boots are the natural choice, flat to high sky-scrapers but chunky brogues or any sturdy shoes, including wedges should work too. Careful with accessorising and the rest of the silhouette, as although in Bolivia it is customary for women to pair poncho with Bowler hat and flared skirt (and make it look fabulous) it may be more fashion-forward and advanced volume for most of us to pull off. 

How ever you intend to wear yours, if you aver wanted one of the poncho family now is the time to grab one. And possibly one of the only seasons (since 1974) in which people will tell you, with a straight face, how fabulous you look and not ask if it's Rag Week at uni. 

Developments of Themes and Trends for Silk Square Scarves Part 1

The silk 90cm square was at its height of powerful allure in the 1950s, what was intended to be worn to shield a costly hair-do (either in time or money, or both) from the elements whilst outdoors, in an open-top car, whilst shooting, fishing or riding or in town out and about became the 'must-have' accessory of the era, whatever else a 'lady' wore. The large silk square, folded into a triangle and knotted under the chin was considered very grown-up and literally lady-like, aspiring to the traditional lifestyle of power, landowning and old money, an echo of what only very few had enjoyed pre-World War II. In reality very few women rode in open-top sports cars or astride horses for their morning exercise and were more likely to wear their precious scaves on annual trips to the seaside or waiting for the bus in-town.

Hermes' La Femme au Carre (Bali Barret) 2005 

The traditional brace of pheasants and compass and other similar spoils of hunting scenes on scarves were common, as were every conceivable variation of horses and their tack and paraphernalia, historical costume and vintage automobiles. Mostly on a white background these icons of a bygone age were, perhaps in vain a nostalgic attempt to see pre-war days as settled and peaceful, a reassurance that things would go back to 'the way they were'. Counter to this, was the young youthful rebellion of rock 'n' rollers and beatniks who had no intention of settling down or doffing their caps respectfully (at least not for while). Though they didn't throw away the idea of the silk square completely but often wore it pocket sized around their necks like the cotton gavroche or neckerchief of the old fashioned working class (man). Their scarves were equally traditional in their way or very quirky and modern. In bright polka dots or festooned with cute cartoon dogs, they were tied them around their necks with casual irreverence. Either way the United States took inspiration from Europe, and in turn Hollywood popularised the look worldwide with its parade of beautiful young stars on set and off. Below, the young star Audrey Hepburn typifies the more 'grown-up' look while Natalie Wood, eleven years her junior, wears a chiffon version of the neckerchief. Elizabeth Taylor in a very similar scarf to Wood's, but tied around the head a la style Gypsy, adopting the hour-glass exotic siren look, another popular theme of the 1950s

Hermes had put its first in-house silk square into production 1937 with Hugo Gryghar's Jeu des Omnibus et Dames Blanches, setting the standard by which other silk scarves were measured by, then and since. The thick silk twill 90cm is not the only format made now, nor the only material, yet the original endures to this day as the most collectable and wearable. The established French leather goods house had introduced one of the centuries most enduring fashion accessory. Because of changing social patterns and what and who was deemed desirable, it did not necessarily translate through the decades, but someone somewhere was wearing a silk square, albeit in different ways. Some seemed to have been almost immune to fashion's whims and extremes. Here Princess Margret wears her scarf in the traditional manner on a country walk with her mother, father and sister in 1942, below her elder sister, Queen Elizabeth wears hers with her own family looking very coordinated as was the fashion during most of the 1960s and '70s, and lastly in the mid-1980s when classic-traditional dress again became king (or should that be queen?). The British Royal Family demonstrating their own determined faith and in continuum and tradition. The British monarch now more iconic wearing a silk square on her head than a crown.  

Hermes for Free?

FESTIVAL DES METIERS 

Photo: Hermes Catwalk A/W2007

The impossible is going to be happening at the end of May. There might not be such a thing as a free lunch but at the end of May you can experience the craft of Hermes - FOR FREE.

Hermes craftspeople will be showing off their knowledge and skills and answering questions.

Anyone who went to Hermes LEATHER FOREVER exhibition will tell you how fascinating it was to watch, up close, the making and hand-finishing of such classic Hermes bags such as the Kelly or the Constance.

When?

21 to 27 May 

10:00-18:00 Daily

Where?

SAATCHI GALLERY

Duke of Yorks HQ

King's Road,

London SW34RY

How much?

Admission Free 

See you there!

Wear Something Surreal

Be your own special creation this week and wear something 

Surreal 

Hermes horse-bit worn as a belt buckle with an Hermes Quintessence scarf and 1960s embroidered tunic

Picture - Dr. NO NEWS

Hands-Up Hermes A/W 13

I love Hermes, but I'm just throwing this open for debate: 

How many think that crocodile skirt is on backwards? 

Is it a Gucci Jackie or a Bouvier?

There are actually 2 bags named after Jackie/Bouvier/Kennedy/Onassis. At first glance they look similar but they are actually 2 different bag models.

1. The Bouvier, or G1097 was created in 1958 and is a flattish shoulder bag with a snap-hook lock closure

and

2. The Jackie, or G1244 created in 1961 with a wider leather base and a piston lock

There were other modifications to these basic models above featuring slightly different locks etc over the years.

Jackie Bouvier/Kennedy/Onassis carried both models of the bag in many variations

Many Hermes lovers confuse Jackie O's bags with the Hermes Trim (just discontinued). She may have owned Trims which look similar to the Jackie but she certainly carried her namesake bags that became part of her everyday chic style.



Tom Ford re-launched the Jackie in 1999 but there have also been Bouviers during mid-2000s.

Frida Giannini brought out the softer New Jackie with a detachable longer shoulder strap and tassels in 2009 in 2 sizes, the Large version is now a little smaller than the massive Large version of '09

The original version of the Jackie was launched again AW '11 with a single adjustable strap but only Med size